August 29th
Last Sunday I went to the local “craft” fair in Nampula but it is more an assortment of people selling everything. There were some crafts – wood and baskets along with ivory jewelry. As my interpreter said, “The elephant comes into a village, tramples the crops so the villagers kill the elephant, eat the meat, use the hide for the roof on the hut, and sell the ivory.” Went to the cultural museum which was celebrating its 53rd anniversary. Displays of masks, tools, boats, etc of the local tribal cultures. Behind were “galleries” of artists working in ebony wood and gold/silver jewelry. Off for a beer at the temporary Irish pub and dinner of curry shrimp.
Left early on Monday morning for a week of training farmers south of Nampula.
It is now Saturday and I am back from a week in a very rural part of Mozambique near Lamitil which is 1 ½ hours from Nampula. The lodging where I stayed was in this village. A small room with a bed, naked bulb overhead, a bathroom with a toilet (but no seat) that required water in the tank to flush, a sink, and a non working shower. There was no hot water unless I asked the help to boil some on the fire. Electricity was sporadic. Need I say no TV, radio or internet! One café in town run by 60 year old Portuguese and his wife. He came with the army when Mozambique declared its independence and never left.
Each day was a drive of 1+ hours to a local village where the Forum was located. Forums are association of farmers. Each farms individually but collectively they sell the product. Wonderful work as 30+ in each location eager to learn about developing a Business Plan, understanding Financial Statements, and talking with bankers. Not all were literate and some spoke Matua rather than Portuguese but the training occurred. At the first site, the training was in ½ of a very large chicken coop! The second training (2+ hours over a dry river bed) was outside under a large tree. The rooster there was very vocal about our presence in his domain. The third was in a block building with a thatched roof so lots of insects, spiders and lizards.
The villages along each route are small with perhaps 6 – 10 families in each. The farmers in this region have small plots of land so the cooperative nature of the Forums is important for negotiation in the marketing (they say “trading”) of the products. A Forum will have many products – not just peanuts. Cashews, sesame, millet, cotton, vegetables and a local root called “cassava”. I tried a bite raw but am told it is much better cooked!. As I mentioned earlier, the area around a hut is swept clean every day with a twig broom but “common areas” tend to become trash heaps as no one feels responsible. Thus the city of Nampula’s streets are quite dirt.
Paciência is the Portuguese world for patience. This is the important lesson that I was destined to learn on this assignment.
Saturday, August 29, 2009
Saturday, August 22, 2009
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Happy Nampula City Day!
August 22nd blog posting
Reflections of the countryside. No trash on streets, area in front of houses is swept clean. Houses are either constructed of handmade mud blocks or branches/twigs woven together. Almost all are thatched reed roofs; the new thatching was being placed. A small number have metal. Lots of people walking. Young women with many children – one at breast. My toilet break was in a concrete cube with water to wash it down.
Nampula is quite different – trash on the streets, many beggars. There is a ShopRite down the street so I can buy water. Thank goodness I brought energy bars as that has been most of my meals.
Emilio, local CNFA staff, and his finance Marla collected me at 7pm for an adventure. A temporary Irish pub! Jameson tasted great. There is a young Irish Catholic priest who lives here in the slums. Every August a group from his Irish parish come and work with him for 6 weeks. While they are here, they set up for 2 nights of beer, whiskey, songs and dancing.
The people are wonderful in all instances. In Nampula almost everyone smiles and says hello. I have walked the streets and am a curiosity! It is similar to Ghana 10 years ago when traffic would stop as I walked to the Women’s Market. There are much fewer cars here as people walk or bicycle.
The history of Mozambique includes destruction of major infrastructure components by the Portuguese as they left. Cement into wells, plants and buildings destroyed and knowledge/records were not passed on. Very different from Ghana where the British made the effort to transfer the country more or less intact.
I am off on Monday early am to Mogolovas Province where I will work and stay for 6 days. It is the bush. I will be training in 3 locations where the peanut farmers live. I was able to see one of the training rooms – 10 X 20 feet, handmade brick walls, thatched roof, dirt floor and no electricity. Need I say that training will be only during daylight! I assume the other two sites are similar. My lodging was to be in Government House but it is occupied. So……we visited the other lodging in the small village – extremely basic. Naked bulb overhead but a full bathroom! Note above: I will be taking my energy bars. No TV, no internet, no Irish pub. When I return to Nampula on Saturday night the 29th, the Executivo Hotel will seem like a palace.
TV is very interesting. Many stations in Portuguese, some in Indian dialect, some in French and only one that sometimes is in English. It comes from South Africa so often is in Boer. I have watched “All My Children” for the first time in my life – it was English. I am also listening to the French channel and am sometimes understanding most of it (take note Lizzie!). I depend on my MSN for US news. The wireless internet is spotty so have access and then don’t!
Paciência is the Portuguese world for patience. Like walking with Mr. Oliver the pug, this is essential for success in Mozambique.
Reflections of the countryside. No trash on streets, area in front of houses is swept clean. Houses are either constructed of handmade mud blocks or branches/twigs woven together. Almost all are thatched reed roofs; the new thatching was being placed. A small number have metal. Lots of people walking. Young women with many children – one at breast. My toilet break was in a concrete cube with water to wash it down.
Nampula is quite different – trash on the streets, many beggars. There is a ShopRite down the street so I can buy water. Thank goodness I brought energy bars as that has been most of my meals.
Emilio, local CNFA staff, and his finance Marla collected me at 7pm for an adventure. A temporary Irish pub! Jameson tasted great. There is a young Irish Catholic priest who lives here in the slums. Every August a group from his Irish parish come and work with him for 6 weeks. While they are here, they set up for 2 nights of beer, whiskey, songs and dancing.
The people are wonderful in all instances. In Nampula almost everyone smiles and says hello. I have walked the streets and am a curiosity! It is similar to Ghana 10 years ago when traffic would stop as I walked to the Women’s Market. There are much fewer cars here as people walk or bicycle.
The history of Mozambique includes destruction of major infrastructure components by the Portuguese as they left. Cement into wells, plants and buildings destroyed and knowledge/records were not passed on. Very different from Ghana where the British made the effort to transfer the country more or less intact.
I am off on Monday early am to Mogolovas Province where I will work and stay for 6 days. It is the bush. I will be training in 3 locations where the peanut farmers live. I was able to see one of the training rooms – 10 X 20 feet, handmade brick walls, thatched roof, dirt floor and no electricity. Need I say that training will be only during daylight! I assume the other two sites are similar. My lodging was to be in Government House but it is occupied. So……we visited the other lodging in the small village – extremely basic. Naked bulb overhead but a full bathroom! Note above: I will be taking my energy bars. No TV, no internet, no Irish pub. When I return to Nampula on Saturday night the 29th, the Executivo Hotel will seem like a palace.
TV is very interesting. Many stations in Portuguese, some in Indian dialect, some in French and only one that sometimes is in English. It comes from South Africa so often is in Boer. I have watched “All My Children” for the first time in my life – it was English. I am also listening to the French channel and am sometimes understanding most of it (take note Lizzie!). I depend on my MSN for US news. The wireless internet is spotty so have access and then don’t!
Paciência is the Portuguese world for patience. Like walking with Mr. Oliver the pug, this is essential for success in Mozambique.
Tuesday, August 18, 2009
Nampula
I have arrived safely in Nampula - northern part of Mozambique. My flights were fine. Meetings yesterday with the head of the association that I will work with. I will be training ~75 farmers next week in villages across the district. Off today to meet with the organizer in that area and to see my housing - Government House. Internet is somewhat erratic here so I will post when I have a strong signal. Best to all.
Friday, August 14, 2009
Friday August 14th
Packing. As per usual, much of my suitcase is filled with presents and energy bars! Up at 4:30am to replicate tomorrow's schedule. On another note, received a call from the Peace Corps. I am not going to Mexico in September but will be invited to a country in Eastern Europe in early 2010. She explained that there are many volunteers who already speak Spanish so they are slotted for Mexico, Central and South America. I am looking forward to hearing which country it will be. As I have worked in many it may be homecoming. Next posting will be Jburg South Africa.
Thursday, August 13, 2009
Off to Africa
Packing for 3+ week assignment in Mozambique. As southern Africa is just starting its Spring, the weather is changing. I leave on Saturday very early for Atlanta, JBurg South Africa, and then Beira Mozambique. However, I will be working in the north east section - near Nampula. Back on Labor Day weekend.
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