Malawi for the third time

It is almost the end of my 3 week assignment in Malawi so it is time to reflect on the country, the people and the work. I was last in Zomba Malawi in August of 2012 and worked with Domesi, a processing cooperative that makes peanut butter and soya milk. My current assignment was very similar to my first Malawi experience in 2009/2010 as I am again working with a private company – in this case, UMODZI Consulting – on a project analysis. When I arrived in Johannesburg South Africa I was told that my Mother, Doris Drennan had been hospitalized after calling 911. I had talked with her while in Atlanta waiting for my Delta flight (a ghost in the middle seat!!) and she said that she had the flu. Having just seen her two days before, I thought she had dehydrated. Unfortunately, it is more serious and she will need surgery soon. At the moment, she is back in her villa with full time aides. Arriving in Lilongwe, I assumed that I would travel to Blantyre on the next day. However, UMODZI had executives from the funding agency (Challenges Worldwide, a Scottish NGO) and were fully occupied with other activities. I did have several interviews with clients who used a technology solution – ESOKO – provided by UMODZI. I also met with several people from the US Aid Mission; US Aid and other donors are funding the fertilizer subsidy program. The Easter holiday in Malawi begins on Thursday night and ends on Monday night – 4 days. Therefore, I stayed in Lilongwe at Cluny Lodge, a wonderful guest house run by Marinus and Bev Taale. Another CNFA volunteer, Jim Traub and his wife Linda, were also there. On Saturday, we hired a car and driver for an adventure – Dedza Pottery factory, the Chamare Museum at Mua Catholic Mission, and lunch at Livingstone Hotel on Lake Malawi. The Chamare Museum describes the culture of the three main ethnic groups of Central Malawi – the Chewa, Yao and Ngoni and their interaction with Islam and Christianity and each other. The first display in the entrance area depicts the history of Mua – a Catholic Mission founded by the White Fathers in 1902. Two further rooms have a wealth of photos, displays and artifacts illustrating traditional beliefs, rituals and rites of passage. There is a fabulous collection of over 400 Gule Wamkulu masks. While in Lilongwe had two wonderful Chinese luncheons at Noble House; as good as I remember from my previous visits. Driven to Blantyre on Easter Monday, I went back to Mama’s B&B. This is the private home of James and Nellie. I had my same room with en suite bath. It was wonderful to see them again after almost 4 years. All of their three sons are living in Blantyre – 2 are married and the third is graduating from medical school in June. Nellie’s sister died last fall so Nellie now has a “daughter/niece” who will move to Indiana in the summer and live with her brother, Nellie’s nephew. I walk every morning for 30 minutes in the neighborhood. Others are walking but not for exercise; they need to get somewhere and walking is the most common form of transport. Of course, they are all fit and I am not. On Sunday morning the grasshoppers were swarming so dozens of people were out collecting the thousands of grasshoppers. Yes, these are fried and eaten (without wings and legs). Most of the time though, I encounter only a few people. UMODZI Consulting was created, is funded, and has consultant support from Challenges Worldwide. There are currently 7 Malawian staff – 2 Managing Consultants, the Finance/Administrative Officer, 1 driver and 3 “apprentice consultants”. It has been in existence for several years. It offers a full range of services. My assignment was to work with one of the apprentice consultants, Sungeni Segula, on the ESOKO Project. ESOKO is a technology solution using mobile phones that allows for information to be sent and received efficiently and effectively to large groups of people. www.esoko.com In Zimbabwe, agricultural cooperatives had linked to members. In Malawi, there are several users of the technology: examples include price notifications on 30 different agricultural products; shipments of fertilizer from warehouses to Agrodealers; Land O’Lakes notifies farmers when radio shows will be broadcast. UMODZI is a “re seller” of the technology which was created in Ghana; UMODZI provides training and customer service for clients in Malawi. As my assignment time was shortened, I completed a 2013 financial projection of revenue, expenses and monthly cash flow as well as milestones and KPIs. I am back to Lilongwe early Wednesday morning for meetings with ACDI VOCA, the US Aid Mission, and CNFA. I fly out on Friday and arrive home on Saturday.

Tanzania and Kenya

Starting my last week of assignment for CNFA. Last week was interviews and conversations with the senior staff at Kenya Leather Development Council. In addition to the Scope of Work which requires information and technical steps on a Revolving Loan Fund, KLDC also requested information of the grading standards of hides/skins/leather, the registration of traders, and other strategies that will be considered in the future. KLDC is a “government” company with a mission that encompasses the entire value chain for leather – from the pastoralists (cattle and goat farmers) to the butchers/slaughterhouses to the tanneries to the finishing of leather to artisans who make shoes or other leather goods. It is a value chain that is very important to Kenya’s future, both from monetary and employment standpoints. My last week in Tanzania I was spent with two SACCOs in Katesh. These were newly created so the emphasis was “Banking 101”. One had interest on loans at the same rate without regard to the length of the loan; the other had a 40% annual effective rate on a 90 day loan as they were calculating it as 10% (borrow $500 – repay $550). Wonderful people who are trying hard to succeed. Met a delightful woman – 69 years young – who is working with the women of an indigenous tribe; men own all the cattle and keep all the money. She has groups of women working on handicrafts (beaded necklaces, bracelets, and decoration on fabric). I was given two shawls – one in Bassuto and one in Katesh. At the end of the training, Kissinga and I went back to Moishi. Stayed in a wonderful hotel – Bristol Cottages. Everything worked as compared to the Kilimanjaro Crane Hotel from the beginning of the trip. Bristol Cottages has staff who speak English, a wonderful breakfast, hot water shower, and other guests from all over the world. Delightful. Arrived in Nairobi on the 22nd after a very short flight from Tanzania. The plane was 40 minutes early, my luggage arrived first and the cab driver was waiting. 2+ hours later the cab left me at the Upper Hills Country Lodge. It is the same place that Jim/Kaye and I had stayed in September before the marvelous & Beyond safaris. It is a wonderful hotel with all of the amenities and staff who make you feel special. It is geared to the business traveler. Breakfast is the only meal which is served but it is superb. Next door is the Fairview Hotel (owned by the same company) which is geared to luxury and leisure travelers. There are 5 restaurants serving sushi, pizza, a pasta bar (best value), steaks, sandwiches, and everything in between. There is also a GREAT Chinese restaurant just 4 blocks from the hotels. I am very fortunate to be on this assignment with Bill Clapham from West Virginia. He is a retired USDA-ARS as the chief of a research facility. He is most interested in how systems work. We have written a long paper with recommendations for KLDC and will present our findings in debriefing meetings with the KLDC senior management, the CNFA Kenya Dry Lands Development Project and the Country Director for CNFA. On Sunday, Bill and I took a break from work and walked to the Masai marketplace. 100+ vendors were selling fabric, wood, beaded items, pottery, jewelry……..and they are great salespersons. Bill bought a beautiful wood bowl and fabric – I bought small gifts of beaded work. Ran into another CNFA volunteer, Jack Meyers from New Mexico. He and I had talked before his trip to Angola. Wishing all of you a wonderful week! Leaving Kenya on Friday at 11:00pm for Amsterdam, Atlanta, and San Diego. Have missed my Mother, kids Rob and Bari, and the grand animals as well as friends.

Sunday January 13th

What a wonderful wakeup call this morning! I “watched” on Fox Sport the 49 ers beat the Green Bay Packers. The arrows are not as interesting as the players on TV but……. I am beginning Week 3 of my Tanzanian assignment. I will leave for Kenya on the 22nd. My flights were superb. Delta upgraded my San Diego to Detroit and then, the Detroit to Amsterdam flights. The international flight was completely booked in coach so I was the lucky Diamond who moved up. Flat bed promotes wonderful rest. Amsterdam to Kilimanjaro was KLM and just fine. Arrived and was met by my friend and CNFA Program Coordinator, Anthony Kissinger. This is my 4th assignment with him and I am delighted. Two days in Moishi. Celebrated the New Year with a great dinner – Kissinger and Sebastian Assenga, my interpreter from the last trip. Ate outdoors in a “circus like” atmosphere: rides for the kids and all the waiters had on top hats and bright red vests. Traded a finished paperback on the street. Left on the 2nd for Katesh. The driver, Haji is new to me and excellent. In Katesh, I am staying again at the Summit Hotel which sits on the foothills of Mount Harang. Purchased training materials. Drove to USOMAMA, a cooperative that I had worked with on previous trips to deliver a banner celebrating their 5th anniversary. Leaving Katesh means leaving paved (tarmac) roads. 1+ hour later we arrived at Lake Bassotu. It is a beautiful area. I stayed at the Augustine Catholic Mission which has round guest rooms. Lovely quiet place of 7 nuns and 7 priests. The Church is beautiful. Hot water must be boiled for bathing. Food is very simple. Went to a regional open market with Kissinger and Haji – marvelous!! Cattle, goats, sheep, chickens, pigs for sale. Household goods, fabric, shoes, school uniforms and anything you might need! Kissinger picked a goat leg which I had grilled for the 3 of us. I did not sample the maize or the banana “hooch” which is very alcoholic. The Takauma SACCO (Savings and Credit Cooperative Organization) is only legally registered financial organization in the small town. There are groups that pool financial resources but on a very small basis. This SACCO negotiated a deal for 9 of its farmers to obtain financing from a commercial bank to purchase Massey Ferguson Tractors. My training with this group was bookkeeping, accounting, financial management, business plans/project proposals, and operating the SACCO as a profitable business. Full house every day of 20+. Graduation was on Thursday the 10th and I was given a beautiful shawl which the women had “beaded” including a map of Tanzania with a star for Takauma. Back to Katesh. Began the second training on Friday. There are 2 SACCOs – Hekima (Love) and Upendo (Integrity). We are meeting in a children’s church school room so the desks are very small! 20 people came on Saturday for bookkeeping and basic accounting. Monday we begin the other topics. Sunday I walked into town and went to the Lutheran Church – in Swahili. Beautiful and very simple building. Off to dinner with Haji for rice, beans and green vegetable with chili sauce. Did I mention that I have found Coke Light in both Bassuto and Katesh? Missing all of you but loving it here. I sing American songs as I walk every morning! I have just realized that I never posted during my November 2012 trip to Tanzania. I will try to download some pictures of that trip and this one.

Leaving Angola on November 2nd

I have had a very intense but satisfying two weeks in Angola. Arriving in Huambo, I was again at the Sistec Hotel #12. It is a large room with no windows so extremely quiet. The hotel as I have mentioned before is VERY safe, has hot water and electricity and exceptional staff. None speak English but we manage to communicate! Luciano Silva from CNFA is my excellent “Program Manager” and I had a new interpreter, Jose. He is a young man who works on the oil rigs off of Benguela/Lobito area of Angola. His schedule is 28 days on and 28 days off. “On” literally means on the rig where he does written translations and interpretation. He is married with a 3 month old baby. The three Cooperatives were located in Longonjo, a small town which is about 1 hour drive from Huambo. One, Mbunge has 222 members and 40 hectares and it newly registered. When asked about the large number of members, the President told me that only a member could receive free fertilizer from the Angolan government. The other two, Conusse and Chimbili, each have 40 members and about the same in hectares of Cooperative land. The class was limited to 5 members from each; the President, Vice President, Secretary/Treasurer, Communication (gets the word out when meetings will occur) and one other. In a training situation, having 3 groups makes the process much slower. Each group had to process and then respond to various topics: Mission and Vision Statements; Project Proposal; Financial Statements (create a Balance Sheet and Income Statement) as well as understand concepts such as cash flow and dealing with the bank. The training participants were excellent and worked hard to accomplish every task. For these farmers, the numbers of the language of finance are as foreign as farming techniques would be for me! I was introduced to several officials in the town as well as interviewed by Angola Press. This is an on-line newspaper in 4 languages – Portuguese, English, Spanish and French – which is emailed all over the world to Angolan ex-pats. I also met two representatives from Standard Bank; this is a South African bank which now has almost 10 offices in Angola. Another very interesting person was Carleton Palmer, a CNFA volunteer from Florida. He is a soy beans expert! Weather was wild! Rain, really hard rain every day with thunder and lightning – just like the Midwest. I thought of the east coast of the US and hope that all is recovering. I am now off to Tanzania. I will be back in Babati with two groups that I have previously worked with – Gende and Osomama. I also get a chance to see my CNFA friend, Kissinga! Love to all. I voted by mail before I left. Remember to be part of the process.

It has been a wonderful two week assignment in Zomba Malawi. I am preparing to fly to Nairobi where I will meet my brother, Jim and his wife, Kaye. We are embarking on a multi tent 12 day Serengeti adventure! Domesi Soya Milk and Peanut Butter Production Cooperative covers 3 villages with 1,500 in the population. It currently has 167 dues paying members. The members are farmers of ground nuts (peanuts), soya beans, pigeon peas, maize, and vegetables. Each farmer sells his own produce. Each member must contribute ground nuts and soya beans to the Cooperative for processing into the two major products. The equipment was donated to the Cooperative. It includes a manual grinding machine, a boiler, and other machines to make the two products. In addition, USDA gave them an electric grinder but the Cooperative building does not have power nor does the Cooperative have a generator. Reminded me the famous story, “Gift of the Magi”! To produce soya milk takes between 4 and 9 hours while peanut butter is a full day. The training started with the most basic bookkeeping and accounting concepts and moved into financial statements, project proposals and bank loan request. For most of the 30 participants, this was the first hearing of these concepts. Most had some post-primary education but not all. They were like sponges – absorbing anything and everything but the information was so new that we covered and recovered to ensure understanding. All walked to the class – some for 2 hours. We met in the primary school which had not yet started so the adults had to sit on seats created for children. The room had no windows – instead, there were small holes in the concrete walls to let air flow. And……also, insects of a variety of shapes and sizes. My hotel, Masongola was ok. It is under renovation so will be better in the future. The cook did grill goat for two of my dinners and there was always rice and chopped green vegetables (like collard greens). Had a day trip up to Zomba Plateau and the Sunbird Hotel. This is a 3 star hotel with a view! Lovely, elegant and more expensive that I could afford but great to visit. Bought fabulous strawberries to share. I will not have internet while in tents so look forward to posting again after September 12th. Best to all.

Bulawayo Zimbabwe Week 2 July 2012

The majority of my week was in the CNFA office on the computer. I revised and rewrote 3 modules that will be used for an advanced business management training course for Agrodealers in August. These dealers have already attended two one-week courses last year: one on technical training on seeds, fertilizers, pesticides, and other agricultural topics and one on business management topics. The advanced modules are Cash Flow, Business and Project Planning, and Accessing Credit. A natural fit as I have written materials and books in those subjects! I also had the delightful pleasure of working with 20 young people who are enrolled in a very special program called Vanavevhu (Children of the Soil). These are orphans with responsibility for their younger siblings and grandparents as most parents have died from AIDS. Elizabeth Mhangami (Loyola University Chicago BA) came back to her home city and began the program three years ago. Each new group of 10 young people form a cohort which develops a money making project. Monday through Friday there are educational lessons as well as work on the projects at a 5-acre property. I did a 3-hour consulting on the business aspects of candle making! Go to www.vanavevhu.org for more info. Looking for a grassroots charity – this is the place to give funds. I continue to walk into Bulawayo every day and enjoy the small town feel. It is very different from Huambo Angola. Both are the second largest cities in their countries. Both are in the agricultural areas. But the differences are dramatic. Huambo Angola was one of the epicenters for the 35 year civil war. It was bombed and shot up; sidewalks are non-existent and buildings still show the scars of the conflict. Bulawayo Zimbabwe has good sidewalks (better than parts of Hillcrest in San Diego) and lovely buildings – both colonial era and new construction. Bulawayo also does not smell. Huambo’s sewer infrastructure was also a victim of the conflict. People in both places are friendly and say hello when they see an old, large white woman walking down the street! I don’t stop traffic as I once did in Ghana (late 1990’s) but I am still a curiosity. The average life expectancy for Angola and Zimbabwe is 50 years old. In the US, it is 81 years for women so I may be around for a few more years. I am leaving a small suitcase in Bulawayo as I have delivered my gifts – microwave popcorn, San Diego plates, maple syrup, dill pickles, ball caps, and red licorice. The supermarkets here are well stocked but there are some odd items that cannot be found. In San Diego, peri peri sauce is impossible! Home on Thursday the 19th!

Bulawayo Zimbabwe Week One July 2012

My Delta flights were full as always. However, I volunteered on the Atlanta to Joburg flight to give my seat to the father in a family and I was then seated next to a “ghost”! I was able to get a fairly good night of sleep. However, our 777 was an old one with 2 of the 5 Economy restrooms broken. Long lines. Arrived in Joburg and luggage was there. TSA had gone through my large bag; they need re-packing lessons. Stayed at the City Lodge – showered and slept. Off on the 30th to Bulawayo. What a treat to arrive here on a plane……not a 6 hour bus ride. Petros was waiting to collect me. My last time in Bulawayo I stayed in the Cresta Churchill Hotel. It was an old, Colonial style property in the countryside. This time I am at the Holiday Inn (just like Kansas Toto). It is a modern hotel. My room is just normal and everything works. There is a large supermarket around the corner and an Italian restaurant (which has not been open so far.) I am able to walk to the office; it takes 30 minutes at a normal pace so I think it is just over a mile. Flat and sidewalks. I met with the Gwanda Agrodealers Association on 4 occasions – Monday to determine the three days of training topics. This is a very young association as it was only registered in March of 2012. Unfortunately, there are only 16 dues paying members. The Executive Board asked for training in two major areas: financial management and association development. I have attached two PowerPoint presentations which were created for the Wednesday – Friday sessions. The training sessions were held in one of the national training centers. The classroom was fine with electricity! There were 6 members of the Executive Committee in attendance all 3 days; 2 were female. In addition, a local policeman came on Thursday (to check out the program). Lunch was prepared each day – chicken and beef with rice and sasza. Graduation was Friday. Saturday, I walked to town. On the way, I spent 3.5 hours at the National History Museum. Excellent! It combines the history of men in the area (Bushmen, Bantu, English, etc), the geological influences (coal, gold, etc), and the animals. I recommend this for every volunteer in Bulawayo. In town, I just wander around – exploring supermarkets. Had Chinese lunch which was again very good. Sunday I walked again into town to explore the architecture as very few shops were open. Found the High Court and Bulawayo Club buildings which are excellent examples of British Colonial. Spent some time outside of a Catholic church listening to a full voiced choir. All is very well. I have significant review and rewrite for ASP-Z on the Advanced Business Training modules and developing practical cases to use in that program. As Taswell is in Sierra Leone on a CNFA assignment, I will be working independently.